If you ask me what is the first food that comes to mind when I think of cinnamon? Pastel de nata, the typical custard tart from Lisbon, that you can eat sprinkled with cinnamon just after it comes out of the oven. That combo of custard and cinnamon melting in your mouth is certainly a good use for this spice. In fact, in the West, cinnamon is frequently used for sweet applications, which makes sense given that this spice can enhance the perception of sweetness in food1. However, throughout the world, cinnamon is also frequently used for savoury applications, for example in curries or to flavour meat.
When you buy something labelled “cinnamon” at the supermarket, you may have come across one of two different spices that go by this name - “true” cinnamon (aka Ceylon cinnamon) or cassia. Although not considered “true” cinnamon, cassia is often the most commonly sold.
These spices come from different plant species and have somewhat different tastes. Both types of cinnamon are obtained from the inner bark of the respective plants, which is dried and sold as quills or powder.
“True” cinnamon (or Ceylon cinnamon from Sri Lanka’s former name, from where the plant is native) comes from tender shoots of Cinnamomum verum. The fragile and thin sticks are rolled by hand. It has a sweeter, milder, and less bitter flavour.
Cassia comes from the coarser bark of other varieties of Cinnamomum, which curls naturally. The sticks are thicker and more loosely coiled. It has a more intense flavour.
Some tips for cooking with cinnamon
The main compound responsible for cinnamon’s characteristic flavour is cinnamaldehyde. It does not dissolve in water, so cooking with fat or alcohol is key for dispersing its flavour. Fat also helps tone down some bitterness that may be present if you’re using cassia.
If you use cinnamon sticks rather than ground cinnamon (recommended for infusing creams and stocks, for example), add them early on in cooking. This allows the flavour compounds to get out of the bark and disperse in the dish.
If you are grinding your cinnamon, do it just before cooking, to minimize loss of flavour. However, cinnamon might be harder to grind at home than other spices and unground chunks may feel grainy, so it may be worth it to use the pre-ground version. Just aim to buy it in small amounts at a time, as the flavour can die out fairly quickly.
Recipe: Spiced rice and beans
The spices in this recipe are cinnamon and cloves. I like adding a bit of ground cloves in a savoury recipe with cinnamon. Since these spices share some flavour components, adding a touch of cloves can bring out the “cinnamon-y” flavour. However, pay attention - cloves by themselves can be pungent, and, in high concentrations, can even leave a mild numbing sensation in the mouth. In this case, a small amount is enough for the desired effect.
Both recipes go well with an optional fried egg on top and some lettuce salad.
Version 1 - with tomato
Ingredients
300 g cooked red kidney beans
Note: If using dried beans, start from approximately 150 g dried weight to ensure you get 300 g cooked. Soak the beans for at least 8 hours, then cook in salted boiling water for 45-60 minutes. Before draining, take out one bean and smash it with a fork to check doneness. Alternatively, use canned beans.
300 g basmati rice, soaked for 30-60 minutes, then washed and drained in a colander
3 tbsp olive oil
125 g onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 tbsp “true” cinnamon (lighter brown) or 1/2 tbsp cassia (darker brown; most common “cinnamon”) (I prefer using “true” cinnamon in savoury applications)
1/2 tsp ground cloves
Note: you can ground the cloves with a pestle and mortar
3 tbsp white wine (optional)
4 plum tomatoes, diced
10 g parsley, thinly chopped, save some for topping (optional)
700 ml vegetable stock
Method
Add the olive oil to a large pot along with the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Mix well and cook over medium heat until the onions are soft and golden (about 10 minutes).
Add the sliced garlic, cinnamon, and ground cloves. Give it a good stir and cook for 2-3 minutes.
Add the white wine and let it evaporate partly for 1-2 minutes.
Add the diced tomatoes, stir, and cook for 5 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft.
Add the washed and drained rice. Stir until everything is well mixed. Cook for 2 minutes.
Add the cooked beans, vegetable stock, parsley, and salt (if the stock has no salt). Stir well, cover, and let it come to a boil. Give another quick but thorough stir, then turn the heat to low and cover again. Cook for 12 minutes.
Without taking the lid off, take the pot off the heat. Let it rest covered for 5 more minutes.
When the time is over, loosen up the rice with a fork.
Serve topped with the remaining chopped parsley.
Version 2 - with eggplant
Ingredients
300 g cooked white cannellini beans
Note: If using dried beans, start from approximately 150 g dried weight to ensure you get 300 g cooked. Soak the beans for at least 8 hours, then cook in salted boiling water for 35-40 minutes. Before draining, take out one bean and smash it with a fork to check doneness. Alternatively, use canned beans.
300 g basmati rice, soaked for 30-60 minutes, then washed and drained in a colander
2 small eggplants, cut into 3 cm chunks
3 tbsp olive oil + 1 tbsp for the eggplant
125 g onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 tbsp “true” cinnamon (lighter brown) or 1/2 tbsp cassia (darker brown; most common “cinnamon”)
1/2 tsp ground cloves
Note: you can ground the cloves with a pestle and mortar
3 tbsp white wine (optional)
10 g parsley, thinly chopped, save some for topping (optional)
700 ml vegetable stock
Method
Preheat the oven to 200º C.
Add the olive oil to a large pot along with the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Mix well and cook over medium heat until the onions are soft and golden (about 10 minutes).
In a baking tray, toss the eggplant chunks with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and some salt. Place the tray in the middle shelf of the oven and cook for 30 minutes.
To the pot with the onion, add the sliced garlic, cinnamon, and ground cloves. Give it a good stir and cook for 2-3 minutes.
Add the white wine and let it evaporate partly for 1-2 minutes.
Add the washed and drained rice. Stir until everything is well mixed. Cook for 2 minutes.
Add the cooked beans, vegetable stock, parsley, and salt (if the stock has no salt). Stir well, cover, and let it come to a boil. Give another quick but thorough stir, then turn the heat to low and cover again. Cook for 12 minutes.
Without taking the lid off, take the pot off the heat. Let it rest covered for 5 more minutes.
When the time is over, loosen up the rice with a fork. Add the eggplant and fold it in until well mixed.
Serve topped with the remaining chopped parsley.
Enjoy!
Here’s some music for the day!
Peter, K. V. (2012). Handbook of herbs and spices. vol. 1. Woodhead Publishing Limited Ingram Publisher Services distributor.